Cape Disappointment State Park - Washington

Cape Disappointment State Park will leave an impression with you long after you have left its salt worn shores. Waves, wind, cliffs and sandy beaches welcome you back to a wilder time of exploration and uncertainty. Expect the unexpected around every corner because whatever you do, you won’t leave disappointed.

If you’re a history buff you’ll love the many opportunities to connect with this park’s rich past. As the traditional home of the Chinook tribe this area was a well know trading destination. Captain John Meares attempted to find the mouth of the Columbia River here and when he was unsuccessful he named the area Cape Disappointment. Legends and mysteries wash up on this park’s sandy beaches, including shipwrecks of the many vessels who attempted to find their way to the mouth of the Columbia River. Lewis and Clark walked these very shores on their Corps of Discovery Expedition. The U.S. Military also set up defense structures on this vast coastline.

One of the largest parks on the West Coast, Cape Disappointment State Park is big and getting bigger. A large 2.5 mile jetty completed in 1917, helps guide boats to the Columbia River but creates large deposits of silt and soil which have increased the size of the area dramatically. Look out for before and after photo markers which show how much the park has changed.

Speaking of markers, there is not shortage of things to learn and see. Two lighthouses, an interpretive center, several beaches, a lake, overgrown military bunkers, several hiking trails and lookouts ensure you won’t get bored at this park.

In addition to camping, Cape Disappointment also offers several unique overnight stays. 14 beach front yurts are available for a once in a lifetime opportunity to enjoy waves crashing on historic Benson Beach. Visitors can stay overnight on the North Head Lighthouse campus in either the Keeper’s Residence or Assistant Keeper’s Duplex. Three cabins are also available in an ancient alder forest next to Lake O’Neil. (Accommodations subject to COVID protocols.)

The two lighthouses located in this park are reminders of how powerful and dangerous the ocean can be. Early mariners to the area referred to the entrance of the Columbia River as “the graveyard of the Pacific”. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse was constructed in 1856 to warn captains and still stands as the oldest operating lighthouse in the Pacific Northwest. Further to the North an additional lighthouse was built to aid southbound ships who continued to experience difficult waters. The North Head Lighthouse was completed in 1898 and contains a small campus complete with several residences, a chicken coop and a barn which has now been converted to a store.

If all of the above doesn’t impress you an old-growth forest just might. Eight miles of trails contain forests, saltwater marshes and tidelands which is home to several interesting bird species.

Campers can choose from two campgrounds with 205 campsites, 14 yurts and three cabins. Showers are available as well as a small store for essentials.

If you’re tight on time, here is our top three activities to do at Cape Disappointment State Park:

  • Visit the North Head Lighthouse

  • Check out low tide on Benson Beach

  • Walk in Lewis and Clark’s footsteps on the Discovery Trail or learn more at the Interpretive Center

Our Take: Take your time at Cape Disappointment State Park. Between the lighthouses, the beaches and the historical markers you’ll have plenty to do. Like most of the Washington Coast weather is unpredictable but just when you think you won’t survive a rainstorm it lets up and the sun comes out. If you aren’t able to score a camping spot here, nearby Long Beach and Ilwaco have many accommodations to choose from so you can still plan a day trip.

We stayed in June and our campsite was on a lagoon. Bugs were a serious issue. Most of the campsites are next to the beach and do not have the same problem but just a heads up if you are in a lagoon site. We did see a bear, but it was not aggressive and park rangers seemed to be well aware of its presence.

  • Fire Ring: Yes

  • Ranger Station: Yes as well as a small store.

  • Trash on site: Yes, dispersed throughout the campground. No recycling.

  • Water on site: Yes

Links: Cape Disappointment State Park, Cape Disappointment State Park Map, Cape Disappointment State Park Campground Map

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